I like 'em functional. This build impressed me with it's attention to detail. Handmade goodies that probably work and function as stock. So many guys try too hard with weird-ass funky shit that's just gross and stupid. That makes builds like this one all the more impressive in my book. I'd just like to fire this up and go for (quote from Indian Larry) . . . "A Lap Around Manhattan."
I don't know who built this chopper . . . but, I kinda liked it. Once the guy gets his brake hooked up, and a couple other little things - I believe it's gonna be a bitchin' ride - and a real show stopper !
I suppose the flipped up rear fender - you could take(or leave it) - I liked it . . . the chromed frame and swingarm was highlighted with black (castings shown chrome). SU Carb, Tank, Shocks, Paint, Bars . . . lot of unique pieces. It was just cool - even with floorboards.
Spoked a 1/2 brake front to a steel drop-center . . . just bitchin' . . .
Sissy Bar, Pipes . . . ZOOM IN - all kinds of neato stuff.
Ricky drove up from Kansas City to hang around a couple days - and go check out the Donnie Smith Custom Cycle Show in St. Paul. This show and swap is a great way to get the juices flowin' for ideas and inspiration - and he wasn't disappointed. Neither was I . . .
My friend Bob noticed his 2007 was leaking oil back by the transmission. It continued leaking and it was coming out more and more all the time . . . He thought it was just a bad seal, but the bearing was missing some balls (actually missing 2 complete ball bearings (he popped out 4 more later) Where did the ball bearings go?
Bearing (8) and Seal (15)
The bearing race was badly pitted and breaking away . . .
Bearing is H-D Part No. 8967. (FAG Bearing) If your trans starts leaking, you'd better check it out . . . He asked the dealership how many they had changed . . . They said, "A lot ! " . . . it's usually on a motorcycle with about 28,000+ miles . . .
. . . . without nice paint. Flat Black, Black, Rust . . . It just ain't finished without a bitchin' paint job. It's where a really good build just ends up like everybody else. It's just too easy nowadays to get online and buy shit . . . This rod - "The Iron Orchid" is so freakin' cool. It's a true build - A true custom rod . . . becoming a lost art.
The factory (H-D) says .001 to .005 specifications. I think that's too tight. Big Noot (and myself) have seen plenty of "blued" cam shims and thrust washers. These new cams (like Andrews, etc.) are made from a very low porous steel which can grow more - requiring more end play. Andrews says, .008-.012.
Always follow the specific instructions for your particular aftermarket camshaft.
1. Always check cam shaft end play with gasket and
cover fully tightened to torque spec.
2. Make sure there are no burrs on thrust washer.
3. I always "time" cam and breather
just the way in will run in engine.
4. Move cam towards gear cover (away from case)
5. Feeler gauge between thrust washer and cam shim.
6. Check at 180 degrees (rotate assembly and check again)
This guy Tom White is a real sharp dude writing programs and using a milling machine. He manufactures a neato set of brackets that bolt to the heads of pans & shovels, so you can run a CV carburetor if so inclined.
he also has lots of other trick goodies . . . all made at TT Cycle, Belknap. Iowa !
Terry Noth gave me an original K-Model Parts Book (with an XR-750 supplement inside) Terry has been on this blog before . . . and it's always a trip to chat with him about Ks, KRs, KHKs, WRs . . . Sportster Strokers . . . it runs deep is his blood. A total race builder who has built many many motors.
However, the swap meet was kinda a bust for me . . . I couldn't believe some people this year that you'd give them the opportunity to purchase a $100 part for $50 and they'd offer $20 . . . WTF ????
PS. Great to hang with Jeremiah, Pete, Dave, Papa Clutch, Michael, Steve . . . and all those CR party people and their gals I'm lucky enough to know . . . See ya'll real soon ! -Noot
If you get your left side case all assembled (bearings pressed) and you find there's a little too much end play...... you can surface grind a small amount off your center spacer. Some look like this (others are completely round with "timken" stamped on them). If it's too tight (you need a thicker spacer, because the bearings are smashed against the races). That's why the instructions are so strict on using the supplied spacer with your bearing kit, since all the tolerances are set up for that particular combination of bearings and races. When you install your pulley (or compensating sprocket) it could take up a slight amount of end-play, so you need to take that into consideration too. It's pure luck any of these garage builds work as good as they do with so much shit that could happen to just ruin your day ! Hey, why's my motor making these squealing sounds ???????
How to polish your crank and get professional results:
1. Cut your (600 grit) to journal width (add lube if desired)
2. Tape it tight to journal
3. Use leather or rawhide
4. Spin emery paper (I use 3M wet/dry) for about 30 secs.
5. Remove and inspect
6. Repeat with 800 or 1000 grit as desired
This method leaves a beautiful, polished surface for your new bearings and is ready for plasti-gage measuring - which is highly recommended (even after bore-gage measurements) This particular crank measured almost perfect - but, it had oil scoring, which was removed after this procedure.
I never got the chance to meet him . . . but, I get to hang with a few who knew him well. The stories just flow . . . and they are so proud to tell them. Roth was a true giant. His legend still stands. His fiberglass creations were first shunned by the industry . . . (now a guy with a glass '32 Ford thinks he has a real one and wins first place at the show !) Roth took a lot of things and made them cool - or made them cooler - and made them so we could have one too. He gave away all his secrets, all his findings, all the stuff he worked so hard to create - he gave it all away - so we could all be cool. Long Live "Big Daddy" Ed Roth.